With every new skincare brand comes the promise of a “breakthrough” formula. Face oils that erase even the most microscopic of flaws; moisturizers that defeat mountainous zits. Then there’s perhaps the most prevalent marketing technique: “Botox in a bottle.” It’s become the new tagline du jour, with products boasting industrial-strength antiaging that rivals the magic-wand effect of injectables.
It’s not surprising that the quick-fix element of Botox would become the perfect springboard for skincare-marketing strategists. The steady rise in Botox has propelled the treatment to “get out of jail free”-card status for those who might not have been clued in to the importance of sun protection, or the benefits of a multi-step skin routine, earlier in life. As the pandemic ushered in a rise in celebrity skincare — the likes of Hailey Bieber, Rihanna, and Naomi Osaka have all created their own lines — there’s been more talk of replicating the effect of Botox in a topical product. With the launch of JLo Beauty, Jennifer Lopez claimed and repeatedly maintained that her taut forehead is the result of her rigorous routine, not a needle. Even the dermatologists of the rich and famous are releasing their own Botox-challenging products. Board-certified dermatologist and RealSelf advisory board member Dr. Janet Allenby says it’s only natural Botox would become synonymous with antiaging.
“Botox is such a unique drug in that it opened an entire frontier in aesthetic medicine, so it’s not surprising that when we think of the antiaging in medical terms, the name Botox comes to mind,” says Dr. Allenby. “While there has been a boom in cosmeceutical products available to us to help with the effects of aging and environmental damage, none compare to Botox in its effectiveness.”
It’s inevitable that Botox users would attempt to seek to re-create its effects in a topical product. Many “Botox babies” are undergoing injectables as young as 23, which means by age 30 they will have invested several thousand dollars into the antiaging process, so replacing Botox with skincare would not only be convenient, but more affordable. However, Botox alone is really just, well, skin deep. Dr. Allenby affirms there are no real de-aging properties in Botox, because it doesn’t promote smoother skin, cell growth, or build collagen. Unlike skincare, Botox isn’t really reversing the effects of environmental stressors like sun damage — it’s simply covering them up for four to six months.
“Use of skincare products may take a little longer and require more consistent usage to get you there, but it’s well worth the outcome with what today’s products can deliver,” shares Dr. Allenby. “It’s not [a matter of choosing] Botox or skincare; it’s using both that is the key to success in treating antiaging.”
Not only does skincare “get you there,” but it can significantly extend the life of Botox if you do get it by boosting your skin’s own regeneration. By stimulating collagen, skincare works alongside Botox as a one-two punch to both reduce the appearance of aging while it actively de-ages. This doesn’t mean you have to only use products purchasable through dermatology clinics, or buy the expensive brands from department stores; skincare has evolved to the point that top brands are available directly to consumers and at the fraction of the cost of La Mer.
Enter Acaderma.
“With Botox, you are going to see more instant results,” explains Acaderma founder and dermatologist Dr. Shuting Hu. “To see the effects of antiaging products, you have to be patient. A lot of people think you’ll get instant results, but that’s not realistic.”
Particularly powerful are Acaderma’s serums, which include the likes of Norway spruce, peptide complex, edelweiss, carnosine, and ceramide complex, as well as retinol complex and ProPhagy, a patented concentrate of vitamin C derived from the cherry tomato. The difference in the skin’s elasticity after a mere several weeks of use is nothing short of mind-blowing. For those who’ve long believed skincare is overhyped, there are few products that deliver on its promises with the force of Acaderma. Dr. Hu eschews the “Botox in a bottle” ploy, instead marketing Acaderma as a range of heavy-hitting ingredients that actually go the distance.
“I believe that skin knowledge is skin power; the more educated you are about your skin, the more conscious decisions you can make towards taking care of it,” says Dr. Hu. “With Acaderma, I wanted to use my background in biology, cellular regeneration, and technology to create a line of products that people can use to protect, restore, and renew their skin.”
The brand not only offers clean, toxin-free formulas, but opts for gentler alternatives to the buzzworthy ingredients currently dominating the industry. Retinol has become one of the most tried-and-true additions to many skincare routines, but its intensity can leave the skin prone to sensitivity. To mitigate this, Dr. Hu incorporates bakuchiol — a natural, plant-based retinol alternative that provides similar benefits.
Bakuchiol is one of the primary ingredients recommended by Dr. Jasmine O. Obioha, the in-house dermatologist at wellness curation and skincare company Glory Skincare. She also recommends peptides and vitamin A to delay the onset of wrinkles and fine lines, though she notes sunscreen is of the utmost importance when it comes to antiaging.
“Photoaging is the biggest driver of accelerated aging, especially in lighter skin types,” Obioha says. “So, no matter how many steps your skincare routine entails, if you are not wearing a mineral sunscreen, you aren’t fighting aging effectively.”
Dr. Allenby’s skincare “fan favorites” include products that encourage cleaner collagen, as well as antioxidants that reduce and reverse the damage done by daily stressors (which she likens to metal rusting when left outside unprotected). “Antioxidants combat the oxidative stress — the technologies in the Alastin, SkinCeuticals, and SkinMedica skincare lines encourage our skin to do this.”
It’s worth noting that, while Botox may not be an antiaging cure-all, neither is skincare, and the former certainly has its long-term benefits. With its capacity to limit the motion of the face’s muscles — thereby rectifying creases or even stopping them before they start — Botox can be enormously helpful to those with aging insecurities. Nonetheless, when it comes to complexion maintenance or general correction, skincare is nothing less than irreplaceable. Thankfully, adds Dr. Allenby, we’ve never been more conscious of that fact.
“There has been a huge change in the quality and awareness of available skincare today as compared to a decade ago,” says Dr. Allenby. “The serious skincare lines are investing in the science and studies to support the claims being made for antiaging. I’m surprised everyday by the innovation in aesthetic medicine — things personally beyond my own comprehension are coming out, which is so thrilling and so cutting edge.”
Maybe one day, continues Dr. Allenby, the beauty industry will bridge the best of both worlds to legitimately offer Botox in a bottle. But until that breakthrough occurs, be patient, and always, always remember your sunscreen.
Beatrice Hazlehurst is a New Zealand–born writer covering culture, entertainment, and lifestyle for multiple outlets. She nomadically traverses both coasts, but currently you can find her by the beach in Southern California.
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